A)
Before You Begin
Tips:
- Install floor last when doing renovations.
- Heat your home for at least one week before installation.
- Keep subfloor dry and make sure basement is well ventilated.
- Acclimatize the wood for at least 24 hours before installing.
- Maintain relative humidity between 40% and 50%.
- Use a hygrometer [relative humidity indicator] to check moisture
content in the air to ensure that relative humidity is within the
recommended range.
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Important: Wear you security equipment and maintain a safe environment at all times. |
Prepare
your tools and accessories
Check
subfloor moisture level
Using a wood moisture meter, ensure that the moisture reading for the
subfloor does not exceed 12% and that the difference between the reading for the boards and subfloor
is no more than 4%. If the moisture reading is too high, find the moisture source and correct it.
Check
that subfloor is appropriate
The subfloor must be plywood [minimum 5/8" [16 mm] thick] or approved OSB
[3/4" [19 mm]] if installed over 16" [400 mm] center-to-center joist substructure. Screw subfloor
firmly onto joists to prevent floor movement and squeaks. Replace any existing floor or subfloor
that has suffered water damage or shows structural weaknesses.
The surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/16" [5 mm] variation over 10 ft. [3 m]. If
necessary, sand any bumps using #20 grit paper.
The subfloor must be vacuumed clean and be smooth and free of any debris,
staples, visible nails, old adhesives, or other dried substances.
B)
Preparation
Sketch
out the installation
Determine starting point or wall and the direction in which boards will be
installed. Boards should be installed perpendicular or at 45° to joists.
Lay felt paper [or equivalent] over the entire floor surface.
Open a
few boxes and lay out boards in the same position they will be installed
To create a more pleasing appearance, lay boards across the entire room as
they will be installed to ensure a good mix of colors and nuances. Remove or reposition any boards
you find less attractive. Select boards that go best with the transition moldings you will be
installing.
Draw a
line marking the first row
Using a chalk line, mark a guideline parallel to the starting wall, taking
into account the width of the boards plus an additional 3/4" [19 mm] for the expansion gap and
tongue. Select the longest and straightest boards for the first row.
C)
Laying Boards
Place,
drill, and nail the first row
Align the first board with tongue side along starting line and grooved
side facing the starting wall; leave a 1/4" [6 mm] gap from the right side wall [perpendicular to
starting line]. Drill and nail boards from above, as close to the wall as possible. Install
subsequent boards from right to left until ready to trim row end boards.
Use
trimmed boards to start next row
To minimize trim waste, select row end boards that are long enough for
their trimmed ends to be used to start subsequent rows. Leave a 1/4" [6 mm] gap between the wall and
the end of each row. The first board of the second row must be at least 6" [150 mm] shorter or
longer than the one used in the first row, to avoid lining up the joints.
Since wall proximity prohibits the use of a stapler, use a hammer and nail
punch to drive finishing nails approximately every 4" [100 mm] along the tongue for the first few
rows.
Use
floor stapler as soon as possible
Subsequent rows should be installed the same way, using the stapler.
The last 4 or 5 rows should be installed the same way as the first rows
due to the proximity of the wall. You may have to trim the boards closest to the wall to leave the
1/2" [12 mm] required for the expansion gap.
Enjoy your Mirage floor for many years to
come!
In the event of a discrepancy between the information written in this section and the
Installation Guide, the latter shall prevail.
Hardwood Floors
